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Mad1723

Guide de tuning 86/FR-S/BRZ pour débutants

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mikepage

Dans la section transmission on pourrait parler de flywheel ou d'un driving shaft lightweight et même d'une final gear aussi pour du n/a power :)

 

Comme c'est un guide pour les débutants, c'est loin d'être une modification qu'on fais au début.

 

Et vu la job que sa implique aussi... démonter la transmission pour la flywheel et démonter/re-ajuster le diff arrière pour la final gear... des beau projets haha

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trueno86power

mikepage

Dans la section transmission on pourrait parler de flywheel ou d'un driving shaft lightweight et même d'une final gear aussi pour du n/a power :)

 

Comme c'est un guide pour les débutants, c'est loin d'être une modification qu'on fais au début.

 

Et vu la job que sa implique aussi... démonter la transmission pour la flywheel et démonter/re-ajuster le diff arrière pour la final gear... des beau projets haha

 

Oups j'avais oublié que c'étais juste pour les débutants... Oubliez ce que j'ai dit ;)

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Si j'ai l'opportunité d'acheter un kit Brembo avant/arrière (gallipers & disques) pour environ 800$, provenant d'une Hyundai Genesis Coupe...

 

1- Ca fit-tu?

 

2- C'tu un bon deal?

 

Merci

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@Altorhys Nos véhicule ont des pièces partagé avec Subaru... Certain kits de calipers Brembo de Subaru s'installe (va voir dans la section how-to grostoine la fait) mais pas un kit de Genesis.

 

Que sa soit un deal ou pas, sa fit pas la.

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trueno86power

@Altorhys Nos véhicule ont des pièces partagé avec Subaru... Certain kits de calipers Brembo de Subaru s'installe (va voir dans la section how-to grostoine la fait) mais pas un kit de Genesis.

 

Que sa soit un deal ou pas, sa fit pas la.

 

les 86-frs-BRZ  ... SONT ... des Subaru ;) tout est exclusivement fabriqué par Sub, de fait les composants de freins peuvent être piochés dans la banque subaru pour WRX du moment que ça reste sur les modèles en 5x100 ;)

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Kuma

trueno86power

@Altorhys Nos véhicule ont des pièces partagé avec Subaru... Certain kits de calipers Brembo de Subaru s'installe (va voir dans la section how-to grostoine la fait) mais pas un kit de Genesis.

 

Que sa soit un deal ou pas, sa fit pas la.

 

les 86-frs-BRZ  ... SONT ... des Subaru ;) tout est exclusivement fabriqué par Sub, de fait les composants de freins peuvent être piochés dans la banque subaru pour WRX du moment que ça reste sur les modèles en 5x100 ;)

Ne t'inquiète pas, @trueno86power est très au courant que Subaru fabrique le véhicule. Il voulait probablement dire que l'on peut interchanger des pièces avec d'autres Subaru, dont les WRX (kit Brembo) et les Forester (oil cooler par exemple) :)

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Mad1723

Kuma

trueno86power

@Altorhys Nos véhicule ont des pièces partagé avec Subaru... Certain kits de calipers Brembo de Subaru s'installe (va voir dans la section how-to grostoine la fait) mais pas un kit de Genesis.

 

Que sa soit un deal ou pas, sa fit pas la.

 

les 86-frs-BRZ  ... SONT ... des Subaru ;) tout est exclusivement fabriqué par Sub, de fait les composants de freins peuvent être piochés dans la banque subaru pour WRX du moment que ça reste sur les modèles en 5x100 ;)

Ne t'inquiète pas, @trueno86power est très au courant que Subaru fabrique le véhicule. Il voulait probablement dire que l'on peut interchanger des pièces avec d'autres Subaru, dont les WRX (kit Brembo) et les Forester (oil cooler par exemple) :)

 

Tu m'enleve les mots de la bouche !

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WatchmaN

Extrait du liens que je vais poster, à lire très instructif.

 

The worst thing about a driveshaft is the diameter is so small, and the acceleration time is so long, there just isn't much horsepower being sapped from the system. A typical steel driveshaft in a typical 12 or 13 second car only stores an average of about 1/4 horsepower. If we got 100% of that back with a zero weight shaft, we would never notice it.

 

Good reasons to change a driveshaft are to get rid of vibration and harmonic resonances in the shaft, to make it stronger, or to simplify a two-piece driveshaft system. The silliest reason is to speed the car up. Even if we only pay $100 for a shaft, it would typically be much less than 1/4-horsepower average gain. That would be paying much more than 100/.25 = $400 per horsepower.  Paying a lot more than $400 per horsepower is not a good investment. 

 

Mass rotationnelle expliqué

 

Dans le cas de notre char c'est pas juste une question de poids en rotation, c'est aussi qu'on a un joint dans le driveshaft qui doit causer des pertes.

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Exact mais le prix vaut pas quand même les hp libéré. Quand tu es rendu a travailé sur le poids total de ton véhicule la tu peux y penser tout compte.

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WatchmaN

Extrait du liens que je vais poster, à lire très instructif.

 

The worst thing about a driveshaft is the diameter is so small, and the acceleration time is so long, there just isn't much horsepower being sapped from the system. A typical steel driveshaft in a typical 12 or 13 second car only stores an average of about 1/4 horsepower. If we got 100% of that back with a zero weight shaft, we would never notice it.

 

Good reasons to change a driveshaft are to get rid of vibration and harmonic resonances in the shaft, to make it stronger, or to simplify a two-piece driveshaft system. The silliest reason is to speed the car up. Even if we only pay $100 for a shaft, it would typically be much less than 1/4-horsepower average gain. That would be paying much more than 100/.25 = $400 per horsepower.  Paying a lot more than $400 per horsepower is not a good investment. 

 

Mass rotationnelle expliqué

 

While this argument is very valid for people who want to build a drag car, if you're looking to track your car, that link may be misleading. No there is no power to be gained, No there is not much time to be saved... On a quarter mile but on a track where gears are changed more then 2-3 times there is much to be gained from a lighter driveshaft. The reduction in weight allows you to continue to accelerate more rapidly then stock as well as decelerate faster then stock saving fractions of seconds for every change in gear. Now add up every shift you do in a lap, pretend u save 0.05 seconds per shift, that's 1 second per 20 shifts. Also if you read the article closely and take into account the fact that @n0ledge mentioned about our driveshaft being 2 piece, the radius of the universal join on our driveshaft is much wider than the radius of a 1 piece carbon shaft take the square of the difference in radius and it to the difference in weight and all of a sudden we have a serious change in stored energy across all RPMs ;)

 

@WatchmaN you're right when you say it's not for beginners but wrong when you save it's a waste of money, especially for us N/A guys

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For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

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WatchmaN

For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

 

Absolutely! It's in my plans but only after the tail of the Dragon, for fuel economy reasons lol

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WatchmaN

For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

 

Driveshaft plus ou moins 550$ et 30 minutes d'installation, Final drive plus ou moins 1000$ plus une couple d'heures si tu sais ce que tu fais, sinon c'est 100$ de l'heure au garage... Le résultat est bien meilleur avec une final gear, mais le prix est loin d'être moins chère.

 

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/driveshaft-shop-aluminum-shaft-mt-864.html

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mfactory-4-67-final-drive-gear-556.html

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n0ledge

WatchmaN

For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

 

Driveshaft plus ou moins 550$ et 30 minutes d'installation, Final drive plus ou moins 1000$ plus une couple d'heures si tu sais ce que tu fais, sinon c'est 100$ de l'heure au garage... Le résultat est bien meilleur avec une final gear, mais le prix est loin d'être moins chère.

 

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/driveshaft-shop-aluminum-shaft-mt-864.html

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mfactory-4-67-final-drive-gear-556.html

 

Weir performance sells final drives for about 300USD ;)

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Et pour l'installation J'ai toutes les outils et connaissance pour le faire moi même, ça prendra une journée la Faire tranquil et si Je trouve un different is300 pas cher Je peut lacher swappé quand cest pret dans 15 min ;)

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Zippy

n0ledge

WatchmaN

For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

 

Driveshaft plus ou moins 550$ et 30 minutes d'installation, Final drive plus ou moins 1000$ plus une couple d'heures si tu sais ce que tu fais, sinon c'est 100$ de l'heure au garage... Le résultat est bien meilleur avec une final gear, mais le prix est loin d'être moins chère.

 

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/driveshaft-shop-aluminum-shaft-mt-864.html

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mfactory-4-67-final-drive-gear-556.html

 

Weir performance sells final drives for about 300USD ;)

 

Je mettrais jamais sa sur mon auto meme si on me le donnais. Des pieces d'auto pas chere, sa donne TOUJOURS le meme résultat = failure.

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grostoine

Zippy

n0ledge

WatchmaN

For N.A people I would change the final drive before changing the drive shaft the benefit will be much more noticeable and cost less.

 

Driveshaft plus ou moins 550$ et 30 minutes d'installation, Final drive plus ou moins 1000$ plus une couple d'heures si tu sais ce que tu fais, sinon c'est 100$ de l'heure au garage... Le résultat est bien meilleur avec une final gear, mais le prix est loin d'être moins chère.

 

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/driveshaft-shop-aluminum-shaft-mt-864.html

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mfactory-4-67-final-drive-gear-556.html

 

Weir performance sells final drives for about 300USD ;)

 

Je mettrais jamais sa sur mon auto meme si on me le donnais. Des pieces d'auto pas chere, sa donne TOUJOURS le meme résultat = failure.

 

You should do a little research before making comments like that @grostoine have you ever even heard of Weir performance or read a review of their products?  I know cheap parts have no place on 'your' car but just because a part isn't expensive doesn't mean it isn't solid or reliable.  Weir performance makes diffs and final drives for more than our cars they are a specialty shops that sell their high quality made in America parts at a fair price. A true Toyota 4.56 final drive (identical to what Cusco sells (read reviews) costs 450USD if you know how to shop so 300USD is not much cheaper when you take that into consideration. If you like paying extra for your parts let me know I'll sell you any part u want with a Cusco stamp on the box for twice what it's worth ;)

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That's ok if you don't want to improve the solidity of your car. If you change your final drive or anything on your car, what's the point of getting something that do not improve solidity? A 300 USD finale drive gear may be as reliable and solid as the stock one, but not as an upgraded one. Will it last longer than a 1000$ one... I don't know and I'm pretty sure you don't. I'm not saying the 1000$ one is better. I'm saying if other parts are usually 500$-750$-1000$ and you say the 300$ one will be as solid as the 1000$ one and even better, let me doubt about that.

 

I know about cheap parts that seems to be a 'good deal' because after 3 year of buying so many car parts, not only for my car, I know that every time you buy something that a lot of people claim to be 'as solid', best bang for the bucks, etc etc, it is not always the case, let's say most of the times.

 

But hey, what do I know? You seems to have build a lot of car and know a lot about racing so. Enough tipping, show us what you have ;)

 

@Zippy

 

 

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grostoine

That's ok if you don't want to improve the solidity of your car. If you change your final drive or anything on your car, what's the point of getting something that do not improve solidity? A 300 USD finale drive gear may be as reliable and solid as the stock one, but not as an upgraded one. Will it last longer than a 1000$ one... I don't know and I'm pretty sure you don't. I'm not saying the 1000$ one is better. I'm saying if other parts are usually 500$-750$-1000$ and you say the 300$ one will be as solid as the 1000$ one and even better, let me doubt about that.

 

I know about cheap parts that seems to be a 'good deal' because after 3 year of buying so many car parts, not only for my car, I know that every time you buy something that a lot of people claim to be 'as solid', best bang for the bucks, etc etc, it is not always the case, let's say most of the times.

 

But hey, what do I know? You seems to have build a lot of car and know a lot about racing so. Enough tipping, show us what you have ;)

 

@Zippy

 

Well I don't have a wallet as big as yours @grostoine so you'll have to wait to see! Unless you'd like to sponsor my build and buy me that 300$ Final Drive I'd be more then happy to test it's durability for you ;)

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grostoine

That's ok if you don't want to improve the solidity of your car. If you change your final drive or anything on your car, what's the point of getting something that do not improve solidity? A 300 USD finale drive gear may be as reliable and solid as the stock one, but not as an upgraded one. Will it last longer than a 1000$ one... I don't know and I'm pretty sure you don't. I'm not saying the 1000$ one is better. I'm saying if other parts are usually 500$-750$-1000$ and you say the 300$ one will be as solid as the 1000$ one and even better, let me doubt about that.

 

I know about cheap parts that seems to be a 'good deal' because after 3 year of buying so many car parts, not only for my car, I know that every time you buy something that a lot of people claim to be 'as solid', best bang for the bucks, etc etc, it is not always the case, let's say most of the times. The

 

But hey, what do I know? You seems to have build a lot of car and know a lot about racing so. Enough tipping, show us what you have ;)

 

@Zippy

 

Also.. @grostoine You can't say that I don't want to improve the solidity rather durability of my car if you don't know anything about the part in question (a Weir final drive. In your comment you say it may be as solid as stock but definitely not as solid as an upgraded one but on what do you base your claim if you have no experience with the company's products? 

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Allez lire ce que Pat Cyr en pense, si ya quelqu'un qui brasse son char c'est bien lui.

 

http://patcyrracing.com/?p=104

 

Pour les Paresseux, "You can tell just how much more beefy the Weir axles are compared to the stock one on the right. In my 5 years of pro drifting, I have never broken a ring and pinion, just axles, so this setup made perfect sense to me then swapping out the complete diff for something bigger. Since the Weir install 2 seasons ago, I have not broken anything in the diff, which is great for piece of mind and not having to worry about it!"

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